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La Bella Italia! Wherever I go in this beautiful country, there is always something to amaze me, and every single time it leaves an even bigger mark on my heart. I was visiting Lake Como in Northern Italy for the second time, and once again it surprised me with new little corners and new beauty. It is the third largest lake in Italy, after Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore, covering 146 square kilometers. Its depth of 400 meters makes it the deepest lake in all of Europe. On my first visit here, I wandered around the town of Como itself. This time, though, I wanted to explore the famous Varenna and Bellagio.
You can find more information about this trip on my YouTube channel here.
How to get to Varenna and Lake Como?
If you land at Bergamo airport, catch bus line 1 into the city. You buy the ticket from a machine on the bus, but you pay by card. Buses run every 20 minutes. Get off at Bergamo train station and from there take a train to Lecco.
Lecco is a very beautiful little town. I’d recommend setting aside a few hours to explore it. It has a lovely center, plenty of shops, and the old town wall running around it is not to be missed. Lecco sits right on Lake Como, and the high mountains rising above the town make the view one of a kind.
From Lecco, catch another train to Varenna. The whole route costs around 7-8 euros. When I traveled in July 2023, trains ran once an hour. Keep in mind the schedule isn’t always reliable and delays are common. Also keep an eye out for strikes, since it has happened to me that I ran into one while changing trains, and it was quite tricky to sort things out.
Tip: When you catch the bus toward Perledo, pay close attention to exactly where you need to get off. When we showed the driver where we’d be sleeping, he got confused and dropped us 2.5 km from where we needed to be. In 35-degree heat, with the elevation changes on the road and backpacks on our shoulders, it turned into a real adventure just to reach the house. On the plus side, the view of the lake along the way was incredible.
Where to stay in Varenna to feel the spirit of Northern Italy?
I organized the trip to Varenna and Lake Como at the last minute, so I didn’t have much choice when it came to accommodation. Only a few places were left, and at high prices. I decided to book a spot 5 km from Varenna, in Bologna, Perledo. The place we stayed at was B&B Papillon, and it was magical. It carries that true Italian spirit, and the owners are wonderful. If you want to fully immerse yourself in an Italian fairy tale, this is the place. Breakfast felt like something out of a 5-star hotel. There are so many details throughout the house, many of them handmade, and every single painting was painted by the owner herself. If I had to describe the whole atmosphere in a few words: Italian authenticity in every detail. Of all the places I’ve stayed in Italy over the years, this one comes first. Honestly, I want to go back to Varenna just to stay at B&B Papillon one more time.
The owner was so kind that when we were leaving and it was raining, she insisted on driving us to the station. We felt bad about it, but she wouldn’t take no for an answer. That left us with one more special memory, and it wrapped up her hospitality perfectly. You can watch my video on my YouTube channel to see more details about the place.
How to get to Perledo and Bologna from Varenna?
To get to Perledo there are two options: bus and taxi. A taxi costs around 20 euros. The bus costs around 1.70 euros. You can check the schedule at the tourist information office at the Varenna train station. There’s also a third way to get from Varenna station to Perledo: a night van running from 9 PM to midnight. It’s free and provided by the municipality. You can also find its schedule on a sign at the bus stop, next to the café in front of the station. To reserve your spot, it’s best to scan the QR code on the sign and message the WhatsApp number that comes up.
What to see in Varenna and Lake Como?
The little town is great for walking. With its greenery and beautiful flowers, the walk is genuinely enjoyable. There’s even a spot that locals and tourists use as a beach, so bring your swimsuit.
The old part of town has romantic little streets with lots of small staircases. Whichever alley you choose will lead you to beautiful views and interesting little corners. I’d recommend comfortable shoes, because throughout this part of Italy the towns tend to have steep cobblestone streets.
Right along the lake you’ll find the so-called Lovers’ Walk (Passeggiata degli Innamorati) — a perfect spot for a stroll at sunset.
Villa Monastero
This was the only villa we had time for during our three-day trip. The entrance fee is 13 euros if you want to visit both the gardens and the villa itself. The villa isn’t huge, but all of the original furnishings have been preserved inside, and it’s well worth a visit. The gardens are fairly large, and the lake stays with you the entire time as you walk through them. The view is stunning, because the combination of beautiful flowers and the lake in the distance creates an incredible experience.
When we visited the villa, there were several performances going on — ballet, a band playing, theatre. Everything was spread out across the gardens, which brought out the Italian spirit even more. Set aside about 2 hours to visit the place.
Where to eat in Varenna?
There aren’t many restaurants in town. In the evening it can be quite hard to find a table, especially at the little restaurants right on the lake. It’s worth picking one out online in advance and booking a table, or simply sitting down for dinner a bit earlier. Keep in mind that all the restaurants close by 10 PM at the latest. There’s no nightlife here. People come to enjoy the atmosphere and to rest.
How much time should you spend in Varenna?
Even if you can only afford one evening here, do it. One afternoon is enough to see the villa, take a walk along the shore, and have dinner at one of the small restaurants. I spent two nights in town, and that was enough for me. Although the place where we stayed was so beautiful that I would come back here just for that alone.
Varenna and Lake Como — this is the spirit of Northern Italy.
Suggestions for more trips around Lake Como
Catch the ferry from Varenna and take a trip to Menaggio and Bellagio. The ticket costs 15 euros and is valid all day. One day is enough to see the main sights. The little towns aren’t big, so there’s no need to rush through the streets. Here you can truly enjoy the spirit of Northern Italy.
If you enjoy exploring lesser-known corners of Europe, you might also like my 3-day itinerary to Transylvania, with its own castles, mountains, and old-world charm.
